Today is Memorial Day, a U.S. holiday devoted to celebrating those men and women who fought for our country and lost their lives in doing so.
My Dad’s “Uncle Pete”, Private First Class Walter J. Archer, was one of them. He fought in WWII and was killed in action on November 13, 1944 in Italy. He was buried at the Florence American Cemetery in Via Cassia, Italy.
A few years ago, a former school friend of one of my sisters visited Italy and shot this photo for us. Thank you Gail! My family really appreciated this!
Most of us have at least one good friend. Many of us have lots of friends. Some we are close with and some we don’t know well. Some come and go and some last a life time.
But do you remember ever wanting to have a pen pal? A friend who you would likely never meet? One you would only write letters to and wait longingly for a postmarked reply?
I never had a pen pal. I always wanted one. Never had the opportunity – not until I moved to Ankara.
In April 2010, having lived in Ankara for one month, I started this blog. The word of the blog quickly spread. And before I knew it, I had connected with other expats in a way I had not imagined.
It started with comments. But I soon found myself meeting local expats for coffee and meals. That lead to shopping, dinners and movies.
There are also expats , many of whom are fellow bloggers, that I feel close to in some way. We share passions. Passions for writing, for travel, for music and for fine food. We comment on each others blogs, connect on Facebook and other social medias, and email each other regularly. These are the people who have filled that spot of “pen pal wanted”.
There is one such pen pal that I want to tell you about, Kurt. He passed away two days ago. Kurt had lived in Turkey for at least 20 years. I believe I first “met” Kurt after posting my first restaurant review in April 2010. We never physically met each other.
Kurt was the a very kind and helpful man. He would offer advice, usually only when asked, about things like the Turkish healthcare system, tips on travel, and restaurants. He was willing to share with anyone who asked.
Kurt and I had things in common. We were both raised in the Northeast. We both had family ties to North Carolina and to Germany. We both married Turks. We both spoke German. But most importantly, we shared a love of fine food.
I doubt Kurt ever read this blog regularly. But he always emailed me after a restaurant review. He had great tips of where to eat and which places to avoid like the plague. Our relationship grew to a point where he would randomly email me when he found a good deal on a great restaurant. I really grew fond of him and looked forward to his messages.
Last month, Kurt revealed that he would be heading to the States this summer and wanted to visit one of his former stomping grounds, Philadelphia. I was so excited that I could finally return his kindnesses! I replied with a lengthy list of my favorite restaurants along with links to online restaurant reviews. I even offered to meet him and his wife for dinner.
Yesterday morning, I realized I had not heard from Kurt since that exchange and thought I should email him. Just moments later, I received an email from a mutual friend of his passing. I feel as if I had lost a dear friend, albeit a pen pal.
Kurt was a fine man and will surely be missed by many on both sides of the pond. I will always remember him for his vivacity, goodness, and passion for fine dining. And I will definitely follow his last words of advice to me, “Keep up your writings.”
Yesterday, I met with a group of my Turkish gal pals for lunch. It was a lovely setting on Mogan Lake. Once lunch was served, I shared my story of Kurt with my friends. We then raised our glasses and toasted Kurt.
Yesterday, as part of a day full of various “events” in a smallish group setting, I heard a female Imam speak. It followed prayers, as last evening was a Muslim holy day.
I couldn’t see her directly, and eventually left the room since I couldn’t understand what she was saying. She appeared to be very young, early twenties I would guess. At first, I was impressed by how clearly she spoke, her crisp tone, and by how assertive she was. Having met her only a couple of hours before, these qualities were quite the opposite of what I would have imagined from her.
As I sat in a neighboring room finding things to occupy myself, her voice boomed throughout the house. It was all very interesting to me. But then I heard the word “America.” Not once, not twice, but several times throughout her monologue.
I couldn’t get it out of my head. What could she possibly be saying about America? It was a holy day. She was invited to pray and to speak. She had met me and knew I was American. I had attended the prayer session, so she knew I was there, and close by as she spoke. What’s the possibility that she was saying something other than Anti-American sentiments?
As you can tell, I am quite bothered by this, possibly more than I should be. I try to devote my life to making peace and bringing people together. Do you have any thoughts on this? Is there something positive she might have been preaching? Am I just being paranoid?
As Spring turns to Summer, we bloggers sometimes have trouble keeping our pages full and our readers engaged. It’s not that there is less to write about in Summer. Quite the opposite, we find our days absorbed with fun-filled activity and sometimes, with pure sun-filled laziness.
On the Road Again . . .
I don’t want to bore and lose my readers over this, so I am welcoming guest bloggers over the upcoming weeks! I have a couple lined up. First, a Q&A with the author of the Okçular Village Guide.
According to the author’s website, the guide “has something for everyone. There’s some village history, some stories from our old folks and some walks around the area complete with accurate, hand-drawn maps and lists of flora and fauna. Each page has English and Turkish text so it is a useful tool for those learning either language. “
Second, a story written by a local Ankara child on his experience of living in the States as an expat!
I am also hoping to do a giveaway as part of a review of a children’s book written by a dear friend.
So, this is where you come in! Are you a fellow blogger who would like to share? Are you an author who could use a little extra publicity? Do you have this feeling inside of you that you may just be a writer? Do you simply have something you want to get off your chest?
Please send an email to info.adventuresinankara@gmail.com. I would love to hear your ideas! Let’s help each other out and make time to enjoy the summer!
May 19th is an official holiday in Turkey. No, they don’t celebrate Malcolm X’s birthday! The date is officially dubbed, “Youth and Sports Day.”
More importantly, May 19th is the day that Mustafa Kemal (a.k.a. Atatürk, founding father of modern Turkey) landed at Samsun, which is regarded as the beginning of the Turkish War of Independence.
Turkish Flag Flying High Above Anitkabir
This year’s celebration became a big political mess. The current government decided to change the way the celebrations had taken place for years.
Official ceremonies and military parades were replaced by civilian festivities this year, with people taking to the streets and public squares to mark the day. . . Until this year, militarism had been at the forefront of the May 19 celebrations. High school students used to parade in military formations in perfect precision in stadiums and perform athletic routines. Military troops also used to parade, with generals attending ceremonies in big cities alongside politicians. . . Prime Minister Recep Tayyip Erdoğan said May 19 had finally become a festival for the nation. “Tanks and troops no longer parade [to mark the day]. Now there are festivities. The youth are in the streets [for the celebrations]. Now May 19 is a real festival. Older celebrations used to recall those of iron curtain countries. May 19 is now a symbol of change and transformation.” The prime minister’s remarks came as he received youth representatives from 81 Turkish provinces and the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus (KKTC) at the prime minister’s office on Saturday morning.
The new style of celebrations came as part of the Justice and Development Party (AK Party) government’s efforts towards normalization and the elimination of military influence from the education system. The Ministry of Education issued a circular early this year cancelling the May 19 celebrations in stadiums. Instead, the ministry said, the celebrations would be held in public squares to provide a chance for more widespread attendance.
The written word makes it sound like a good thing, and that it was a joyous day throughout the country. It was not – not completely.
The local television news stations, while way too sensational for me, showed physical fights breaking out throughout the country. It is in fact, the military who keeps the country “balanced.” The military is the biggest supporter of Atatürk, protecting the laws of modern Turkey. This seems a bit foreign to one who comes from a western society. But in Turkey, the military is needed in other ways than a westerner would imagine.
Atatürk’s last message to the Turkish Army – at the entrance to the Hall of Honor at Anitkabir
While no government is perfect, the current party (AKP) leans far to the right and mixes religion with everything. I have no problem with basic tenets of religion. But I generally don’t believe it belongs in government. I have to add though, I do also find that sometimes the so-called separation of church and state in this “secular” society goes too far – such as banning the head scarf from government properties. This was likely law before the current party came into power.
This year, the Ministry of Education forbade people from celebrating in ways that they wanted. Harmless ways. The “civilian celebration” was completely prescribed by the government. It just simply switched hands from military to government. It was not a “people’s celebration” to the extent that the population was not permitted to celebrate as they wished. For example, at a local university (owned by the government), students were forbidden from hanging a wreath on a statue of Atatürk. Seriously? A wreath! What harm could that possibly cause?
Kemal Kılçdaroğlu, leader of the main opposition Republican People’s Party (CHP), joined the celebrations in the Black Sea province of Samsun, where he criticized the government’s decision. “Since when do people need permission to remember [Mustafa Kemal] Atatürk?” said Kılıçdaroğlu. “We know to challenge every kind of oppression, no despot regime has survived.”
On Saturday, my husband insisted on visiting Anıtkabir, a beautiful historic museum and the mausoleum of Atatürk. It is one of the most visited tourist attractions in Turkey, set on a high hill in Ankara.
Anitkabir
I had been several times and did not at first see the importance of this visit. But I went along. When we arrived, I really didn’t want to be there. Parking was closed except to a select few – the diplomats! Surprisingly, we rather quickly found a spot on a crowded neighborhood street.
Then there was a long line to get through security. Oddly, that also moved quickly.
The Line through Security
The walk up the hill was also enjoyable. It was a gorgeous day with a light breeze. The grounds of Anıtkabir have always been well-maintained by the military with green grass and flowers everywhere.
Display of Turkish Pride along the Green Paths
Once inside the courtyard, I was stunned by the long queue of those waiting to pay their respects. My husband wanted to get in the line. I was annoyed. We had just come from the pazar and there were bags of veggies in the hot car. I told him to go – and promised to wait, but only for an hour.
Hundreds Wait in Line
I snuggled against a wall on the grand staircase and pulled out my camera. Taking shots of this and that, my attention was grabbed by an impromptu group of mostly college-aged kids, who gathered in the middle of the stairs and began singing to commemorate Atatürk. With no police around to enforce the AKP decision, the group was not interrupted during their personal celebration. (Sadly, I am not so familiar with my new camera. I thought I had recorded for you but only got one sorry shot.)
Song to Ataturk
During this display, something touched my heart. My husband being here meant something. It was important to him. I gazed across the courtyard and was amazed that I could pick him out in that long line. He was still far away, but at least he had made the final turn of the long winding line.
What is important to him is important to me. So I got up, climbed down the stairs and joined him in the line. I was amazed by how orderly this line was. Except for a few who jumped in front, this was so untypical of Turks who usually push and shove to be first.
Atatürk will not be forgotten and his life will be celebrated by Turks in any way they choose, regardless of what the government says. This day is not about religion – although some will choose to mix the two if they wish as I did, making the sign of the cross as I silently prayed for the people of Turkey.
Flowers for Ataturk
At Peace
I am very grateful to my husband for dragging me along and sharing this day in celebration with me.
Ataturk’s View of His City from the Hilltop
Before we left, we actually got to see the full pomp and circumstance of the changing of the guard. Below is a short clip.
On Guard
I address the Turkish Army whose record of victory started at the down of the history of mankind and which has carried the light of civilization in its victorious progress.
I have no doubt that just as in the most critical and difficult times you saved the country from oppression, tragedy and enemy invasion, so today, in the fruitful era of the Republic equipped with all the modern weapons and means of military science you will do your duty with the same faith.
I and our great nation know that you are always prepared to carry out your duty defending the honor of our country and our civilization against danger, from inside our out.”
Musings of a Philadelphia lawyer who quit her day job and moved to Turkey. Life brings a new adventure each day; exploring Turkey with photography and wit, learning and sharing the cuisine, and providing useful information to expats and visitors.
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