My Dad’s “Uncle Pete”,  Private First Class Walter J. Archer, was one of them.  He fought in WWII and was killed in action on November 13, 1944 in Italy.  He was buried at the Florence American Cemetery in Via Cassia, Italy.

A few years ago, a former school friend of one of my sisters visited Italy and shot this photo for us.  Thank you Gail!  My family really appreciated this!

Uncle Pete’s Cross

One of the Buffalo Soldiers of the 92nd Infantry Division, named after the renowned predecessors of the 1800′s, you can read more about Uncle Pete and the Chester County Hall of Heroes by clicking here.

Thank you to Uncle Pete and all of those who died serving our country!  We will always remember you!  May you rest in peace.

But do you remember ever wanting to have a pen pal?  A friend who you would likely never meet?  One you would only write letters to and wait longingly for a postmarked reply?

I never had a pen pal.  I always wanted one.  Never had the opportunity – not until I moved to Ankara.

In April 2010, having lived in Ankara for one month, I started this blog.  The word of the blog quickly spread.  And before I knew it, I had connected with other expats in a way I had not imagined.

It started with comments.  But I soon found myself meeting local expats for coffee and meals.  That lead to shopping, dinners and movies.

There are also expats , many of whom are fellow bloggers, that I feel close to in some way.  We share passions.  Passions for writing, for travel, for music and for fine food.  We comment on each others blogs, connect on Facebook and other social medias, and email each other regularly.  These are the people who have filled that spot of “pen pal wanted”.

There is one such pen pal that I want to tell you about, Kurt.  He passed away two days ago.  Kurt had lived in Turkey for at least 20 years.  I believe I first “met” Kurt after posting my first restaurant review in April 2010.  We never physically met each other.

Kurt was the a very kind and helpful man.  He would offer advice, usually only when asked, about things like the Turkish healthcare system, tips on travel, and restaurants.  He was willing to share with anyone who asked.

Kurt and I had things in common.  We were both raised in the Northeast.  We both had family ties to North Carolina and to Germany.  We both married Turks.  We both spoke German.  But most importantly, we shared a love of fine food.

I doubt Kurt ever read this blog regularly.  But he always emailed me after a restaurant review.  He had great tips of where to eat and which places to avoid like the plague.  Our relationship grew to a point where he would randomly email me when he found a good deal on a great restaurant.  I really grew fond of him and looked forward to his messages.

Last month, Kurt revealed that he would be heading to the States this summer and wanted to visit one of his former stomping grounds, Philadelphia.  I was so excited that I could finally return his kindnesses!  I replied with a lengthy list of my favorite restaurants along with links to online restaurant reviews.  I even offered to meet him and his wife for dinner.

Yesterday morning, I realized I had not heard from Kurt since that exchange and thought I should email him.  Just moments later, I received an email from a mutual friend of his passing.  I feel as if I had lost a dear friend, albeit a pen pal.

Kurt was a fine man and will surely be missed by many on both sides of the pond.  I will always remember him for his vivacity, goodness, and passion for fine dining.  And I will definitely follow his last words of advice to me, “Keep up your writings.”

Yesterday, I met with a group of my Turkish gal pals for lunch.  It was a lovely setting on Mogan Lake.  Once lunch was served, I shared my story of Kurt with my friends.  We then raised our glasses and toasted Kurt.

To Kurt and to Friends!

I couldn’t see her directly, and eventually left the room since I couldn’t understand what she was saying.  She appeared to be very young, early twenties I would guess.  At first, I was impressed by how clearly she spoke, her crisp tone, and by how assertive she was.  Having met her only a couple of hours before, these qualities were quite the opposite of what I would have imagined from her.

As I sat in a neighboring room finding things to occupy myself, her voice boomed throughout the house.  It was all very interesting to me.  But then I heard the word “America.”  Not once, not twice, but several times throughout her monologue.

I couldn’t get it out of my head.  What could she possibly be saying about America?  It was a holy day.  She was invited to pray and to speak.  She had met me and knew I was American.  I had attended the prayer session, so she knew I was there, and close by as she spoke.  What’s the possibility that she was saying something other than Anti-American sentiments?

As you can tell, I am quite bothered by this, possibly more than I should be.  I try to devote my life to making peace and bringing people together.  Do you have any thoughts on this?  Is there something positive she might have been preaching?  Am I just being paranoid?

On the Road Again . . .

I don’t want to bore and lose my readers over this, so I am welcoming guest bloggers over the upcoming weeks!  I have a couple lined up.  First, a Q&A with the author of the Okçular Village Guide.

According to the author’s website, the guide “has something for everyone. There’s some village history, some stories from our old folks and some walks around the area complete with accurate, hand-drawn maps and lists of flora and fauna. Each page has English and Turkish text so it is a useful tool for those learning either language. “

Second, a story written by a local Ankara child on his experience of living in the States as an expat!

I am also hoping to do a giveaway as part of a review of a children’s book written by a dear friend.

So, this is where you come in!  Are you a fellow blogger who would like to share?  Are you an author who could use a little extra publicity?  Do you have this feeling inside of you that you may just be a writer?  Do you simply have something you want to get off your chest?

Please send an email to info.adventuresinankara@gmail.com.  I would love to hear your ideas!  Let’s help each other out and make time to enjoy the summer!

More importantly, May 19th is the day that  Mustafa Kemal (a.k.a. Atatürk, founding father of modern Turkey) landed at Samsun, which is regarded as the beginning of the Turkish War of Independence.

Turkish Flag Flying High Above Anitkabir

This year’s celebration became a big political mess.  The current government decided to change the way the celebrations had taken place for years.

Official ceremonies and military parades were replaced by civilian festivities this year, with people taking to the streets and public squares to mark the day. . . Until this year, militarism had been at the forefront of the May 19 celebrations. High school students used to parade in military formations in perfect precision in stadiums and perform athletic routines. Military troops also used to parade, with generals attending ceremonies in big cities alongside politicians. . . Prime Minister Recep Tayyip Erdoğan said May 19 had finally become a festival for the nation. “Tanks and troops no longer parade [to mark the day]. Now there are festivities. The youth are in the streets [for the celebrations]. Now May 19 is a real festival. Older celebrations used to recall those of iron curtain countries. May 19 is now a symbol of change and transformation.” The prime minister’s remarks came as he received youth representatives from 81 Turkish provinces and the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus (KKTC) at the prime minister’s office on Saturday morning.

The new style of celebrations came as part of the Justice and Development Party (AK Party) government’s efforts towards normalization and the elimination of military influence from the education system. The Ministry of Education issued a circular early this year cancelling the May 19 celebrations in stadiums. Instead, the ministry said, the celebrations would be held in public squares to provide a chance for more widespread attendance.

Today’s Zaman 

The written word makes it sound like a good thing, and that it was a joyous day throughout the country.  It was not – not completely.

The local television news stations, while way too sensational for me, showed physical fights breaking out throughout the country.  It is in fact, the military who keeps the country “balanced.”  The military is the biggest supporter of Atatürk, protecting the laws of modern Turkey.  This seems a bit foreign to one who comes from a western society.  But in Turkey, the military is needed in other ways than a westerner would imagine.

Atatürk’s last message to the Turkish Army – at the entrance to the Hall of Honor at Anitkabir

While no government is perfect, the current party (AKP) leans far to the right and mixes religion with everything.  I have no problem with basic tenets of religion.  But I generally don’t believe it belongs in government.  I have to add though, I do also find that sometimes the so-called separation of church and state in this “secular” society goes too far – such as banning the head scarf from government properties.  This was likely law before the current party came into power.

This year, the Ministry of Education forbade people from celebrating in ways that they wanted.  Harmless ways.  The “civilian celebration” was completely prescribed by the government.  It just simply switched hands from military to government.  It was not a “people’s celebration” to the extent that the population was not permitted to celebrate as they wished.  For example, at a local university (owned by the government), students were forbidden from hanging a wreath on a statue of Atatürk.  Seriously?  A wreath!  What harm could that possibly cause?

Kemal Kılçdaroğlu, leader of the main opposition Republican People’s Party (CHP), joined the celebrations in the Black Sea province of Samsun, where he criticized the government’s decision. “Since when do people need permission to remember [Mustafa Kemal] Atatürk?” said Kılıçdaroğlu. “We know to challenge every kind of oppression, no despot regime has survived.”

Hurriyet Daily News

On Saturday, my husband insisted on visiting Anıtkabir, a beautiful historic museum and the mausoleum of Atatürk.  It is one of the most visited tourist attractions in Turkey, set on a high hill in Ankara.

Anitkabir

I had been several times and did not at first see the importance of this visit.  But I went along.  When we arrived, I really didn’t want to be there.  Parking was closed except to a select few – the diplomats!  Surprisingly, we rather quickly found a spot on a crowded neighborhood street.

Then there was a long line to get through security.  Oddly, that also moved quickly.

The Line through Security

The walk up the hill was also enjoyable.  It was a gorgeous day with a light breeze.  The grounds of  Anıtkabir have always been well-maintained by the military with green grass and flowers everywhere.

Display of Turkish Pride along the Green Paths

Once inside the courtyard, I was stunned by the long queue of those waiting to pay their respects.  My husband wanted to get in the line.  I was annoyed.  We had just come from the pazar and there were bags of veggies in the hot car.  I told him to go – and promised to wait, but only for an hour.

Hundreds Wait in Line

I snuggled against a wall on the grand staircase and pulled out my camera.  Taking shots of this and that, my attention was grabbed by an impromptu group of mostly college-aged kids, who gathered in the middle of the stairs and began singing to commemorate Atatürk.  With no police around to enforce the AKP decision, the group was not interrupted during their personal celebration. (Sadly, I am not so familiar with my new camera.  I thought I had recorded for you but only got one sorry shot.)

Song to Ataturk

During this display, something touched my heart.  My husband being here meant something.  It was important to him.  I gazed across the courtyard and was amazed that I could pick him out in that long line.  He was still far away, but at least he had made the final turn of the long winding line.

What is important to him is important to me.  So I got up, climbed down the stairs and joined him in the line.  I was amazed by how orderly this line was. Except for a few who jumped in front, this was so untypical of Turks who usually push and shove to be first.

Atatürk will not be forgotten and his life will be celebrated by Turks in any way they choose, regardless of what the government says.  This day is not about religion – although some will choose to mix the two if they wish as I did, making the sign of the cross as I silently prayed for the people of Turkey.

Flowers for Ataturk

At Peace

I am very grateful to my husband for dragging me along and sharing this day in celebration with me.

Ataturk’s View of His City from the Hilltop

Before we left, we actually got to see the full pomp and circumstance of the changing of the guard.  Below is a short clip.

On Guard

I address the Turkish Army whose record of victory started at the down of the history of mankind and which has carried the light of civilization in its victorious progress.

I have no doubt that just as in the most critical and difficult times you saved the country from oppression, tragedy and enemy invasion, so today, in the fruitful era of the Republic equipped with all the modern weapons and means of military science you will do your duty with the same faith.

I and our great nation know that you are always prepared to carry out your duty defending the honor of our country and our civilization against danger, from inside our out.”

29th October 1938
President
Mustafa Kemal ATATÜRK

http://forum.axishistory.com/viewtopic.php?f=80&t=120930

The 14km  hike was across some rocky terrain and some dirt paths, under sun and shade, but not too strenuous as you can see.  We encountered an array of flora, fauna, and ancient architecture.  After the hike, we enjoyed a delicious Turkish picnic lunch.  We followed that with an hour of fun and sun at the Sea.

I hope you enjoy the photos!  There’s so many that you can understand why it took 4 posts to write about it all!  Click on a thumbnail to view larger images.  Or simply sit back and enjoy the slideshow below!

If you are interested in visiting Kaş, it’s easiest to fly to Dalaman or Antalya.  You then take a scenic bus ride to the town.  Direct flights from Ankara are not as common as from Istanbul.  We chose to take an overnight bus (Ulusoy) to the last stop, Kumluca.  We then continued along the scenic route with the Bati Antalya Tur bus.  You don’t need reservations for that bus, but be prepared.  It is not much bigger than a dolmuş and can get crowded.  Of course, Bougainville is happy to help you with your transportation plans as much as they can.

If you are interested in participating in paragliding, sea diving, kayaking, trekking, bus tours, or more, there are many companies available.  You can call ahead or simply walk in their offices.  As Bougainville was the first established, I tried them and highly recommend them!

Adventures in Ankara welcomes guest blogger, Emma Stone. Emma is a travel ‘fundi’ who spent a year back-packing in Nepal. She is based in London and writes about finding budget holidays in unusual places.

Ankara is an exciting city to visit if you’re interested in Turkey’s ancient history. It has many examples of traditional architecture, completed by proud civilisations such as the Romans, Byzantines and Seljuks.

A well-known landmark is the Ankara Hisar or Citadel, which was built in a prominent part of the city. An area that is probably the oldest in Ankara, it is home to many fine examples of traditional architecture, including Turkish houses and restaurants that serve local cuisine.

Ankara Hisar

Although the foundations were laid by immigrant Gauls from Thrace, the citadel marks the original town of Ankara, which may date back 3,000 years ago to the time of the Hittites. The outer walls were built by a Byzantine emperor in the 800s AD and the inner walls survive from 200 years prior.

Within the citadel visitors can find a traditional village – right in the heart of Turkey’s sprawling capital city – complete with museums, cafes, fountains and a mosque, restored from the ancient stonework. Up a flight of stairs in one of the towers tourists can enjoy a panoramic view of Ankara.

View of Ankara

Lunch Anyone?

Easy to spot from any point in the city, the citadel’s 50-foot-high walls are a beloved symbol of Turkey’s capital. A place that has preserved ancient Anatolian life, the citadel is a place where locals and visitors to Turkey can wander the narrow streets and see traditionally garbed people sorting skeins of wool and cooking traditional meals.

Wool

Metal Craftsman

Entered through the Parmak Kapısı or Finger Gate, the citadel transports visitors to a place of cobbled streets and times gone by, even though many of the houses have been renovated and converted to hotels and restaurants. With numerous recreational spots to relax and enjoy a meal, the citadel is well worth the trip to experience traditional Turkey.

Finger Gate

Photos supplied by Adventures in Ankara

Note:  The Hisar actually goes by many names, especially in the local expat community.  Most common is probably the Kale, or castle.  I’ve also referred to it as “Olde City Ulus” as it reminds me of Olde City Philadelphia.  Thanks for sharing, Emma!

Excitable Girl, they all said, excitable girl.

It’s true.  I’m easily excited.  I love taking in life.  When I went to Manavgat and Side, I took hundreds and hundreds of photos and wrote at least 5 posts about it.  It was the same when I visited Gümüşlük.  I had so much to share having spent two weeks there, in Yalikavak, Turgutreis, Bodrum, Ephesus, and Kuşadası.

Yesterday, I met with my weekly English conversation group and shared with the ladies my excitement over my recent trip – especially how I overcame fears by paragliding and kayaking.  I then asked them to share their greatest adventures.

The first woman told a story of getting lost while snorkeling at sea.  She was so vibrant as she told it, getting out of her chair to demonstrate how she was swimming and following the walls of a buried city.

The second woman said she would never do anything that could possibly cause her harm.  So we started to talk about the definition of “adventure.”  I pushed her a little knowing that as a child of a diplomat, she had lived her earlier years in many other countries.

She proceeded to tell a story from many years ago.  She was 16 and living in Prague.  It was 1968 and the Warsaw Pact Armies invaded Czechoslovakia.  Tanks were rolling across the city.  Her family was escorted across the border to safety.  She said she will always remember the young Czech girls waving to her with flowers, begging that she never forget them.

The third woman also needed a little nudging.  She told a story of her first pregnancy at 24.  She was a week away from delivery and found herself stranded between 2 gardens, threatened by wild dogs.  Bravely, she jumped onto a wall between the gardens to make an escape.  Walking across it, she lost her balance and fell to the ground.

Adventure.  What is it?  In this short discussion, we discovered that adventure is not always a good thing.  It does not always give one pleasure.

1. An undertaking or enterprise of a hazardous nature.

2. An undertaking of a questionable nature, especially one involving intervention in another state’s affairs.

3. An unusual or exciting experience: an adventure in dining.

4. Participation in hazardous or exciting experiences

Suddenly, the van stopped abruptly and I saw a police car by our side.  Two men poked their heads into the van speaking in Turkish.  They then turned towards me and and asked “Terry?”

Our time had come.  My husband looked as shocked as I was.  Then we both broke out in laughter.  They had finally caught up with us.  These two were not cops.  It was our turn to go paragliding!

We knew we were scheduled for this.  But we didn’t know exactly how and when it was going to happen.  Bougainville Travel was on the ball though.  The group leaders must have communicated with each other and planned this pickup.  (They didn’t plan the police presence.  But that did make it all the more fun!)

I was still feeling unsure about jumping off a cliff.  My greatest fear of all is of falling, but for some reason, I had agreed to do this thing.  They guided us into another white van.  There were two other guys in the back.  One of these aliens seemed to be in charge.  He proceeded to tell us that this was his “team.”

Still, seemed pretty fishy.  If I hadn’t prior knowledge that I would be going paragliding, I would have never believed this act.  Baris and I sat there giggling like a couple of school girls.  (Sorry Hon.)

The van drove down some very deserted roads.  When we came to a white sign, they veered from the road and drove down a dirt path.  The lawyer in me came to the front.  ”That sign had a parachute painted on it,” I analyzed.  I quickly looked back to view the back of the sign.  What was I thinking?  Did I really believe this group of bandits was kidnapping us and delivering us to the woods Blair Witch style?  The sign checked out.  They had not temporarily turned it, nor painted the parachute themselves to deceive us.  No, this was not the day that we would be left to perish in the woods, feed for for wild animals. (I have to stop watching horror films.)

The team of four were awesome well-trained professionals.  They fitted us with jumpsuits, knee and elbow pads and topped us with helmets.  I hadn’t done enough research and had no idea what to expect.  So I was delighted to discover that this was tandem paragliding.  A seat was attached to me and my pilot was securely attached behind that.  He would do the work while I sat back and enjoyed my fall, er, I mean my flight.

They prepped the two of us and it was time to go.  Baris went first with his pilot, Saffet.  It all happened so quickly that I could not make the decision whether to grab my camera.  Foolishly, I didn’t.  Baris, however, was equipped with his GoPro video camera.  Before I realized it, he was over the edge and flying.  Here is the unedited video of his flight.

And so it was my turn.

Veske had told me 3 things.  ”First, walk, walk, walk.”  Two and three were lost on me at this point.  The fabric wing was laid out behind, checked once, twice, and three times.   Arda and Yaşar were at my sides, ready to assist with the takeoff.  Veske asked if I was ready.  It seemed like an eternity before I responded, “Yes!”

Walk, walk, walk.  That’s exactly what I did.  By the time we reached the edge of the cliff, I was already in flight.

That’s Me!

Perhaps it was the fact that I was tired from our day on the water.  Or maybe I had just gone into some kind of shock.  Fear had escaped me.  I sat back, at ease, and flew like a bird!  Veske had even commented several times on how relaxed I was.

We came dangerously close to cliffs, as Veske skillfully guided us back and forth along the small mountainside.  Always on guard, he checked with me many times to see how I was doing.  I was in Heaven.

Baris’ Self-Portrait – By the Cliffs

Veske is also entertaining.  At one point, he said, “Now we will look for animals.  See if you can find a white one.”  I searched, and then my eyes gazed out to the sea.  I could now see my husband flying below me.  It was beautiful.

Baris was going in for a landing when Veske asked whether I wanted to remain by the cliffs or go out over the sea.  The sea!  Fear #2 – water.  I was taking them both down in one day!

Heading Out to Sea

Baris landed as I passed overhead, over the clear blue waters.  I had never seen water so blue.  On our way down, we passed over the white-washed village of Kaş .  I could pinpoint our hotel as it was the only building draped in rose-colored bougainvillea.  We flew over the mosque and out above the waters.  Back and forth a few times, until finally, Veske’s wife Simone cleared the way and the Seaport became an Airport.

Before heading to Kaş, some folks warned that Turkey was not the place to go paragliding.  That Turks lacked proper training and safety guidelines.  These people were full of poop.  You will never find a better and more experienced team than with BT.  Safety is their primary concern.  The fun factor is phenomenal!

Veske & Me after the flight

Words can’t sufficiently describe our feelings about these flights.  Awesome!  Free!  Exciting!  They just don’t cut it.  All I can say it this . . .

Woo Hoo!

Click here, here, and here to view the series on our weekend adventure.