Category Archives: Restaurant Reviews

All Kinds of Friends – In Honor of Kurt

Most of us have at least one good friend.  Many of us have lots of friends.  Some we are close with and some we don’t know well.  Some come and go and some last a life time.

But do you remember ever wanting to have a pen pal?  A friend who you would likely never meet?  One you would only write letters to and wait longingly for a postmarked reply?

I never had a pen pal.  I always wanted one.  Never had the opportunity – not until I moved to Ankara.

In April 2010, having lived in Ankara for one month, I started this blog.  The word of the blog quickly spread.  And before I knew it, I had connected with other expats in a way I had not imagined.

It started with comments.  But I soon found myself meeting local expats for coffee and meals.  That lead to shopping, dinners and movies.

There are also expats , many of whom are fellow bloggers, that I feel close to in some way.  We share passions.  Passions for writing, for travel, for music and for fine food.  We comment on each others blogs, connect on Facebook and other social medias, and email each other regularly.  These are the people who have filled that spot of “pen pal wanted”.

There is one such pen pal that I want to tell you about, Kurt.  He passed away two days ago.  Kurt had lived in Turkey for at least 20 years.  I believe I first “met” Kurt after posting my first restaurant review in April 2010.  We never physically met each other.

Kurt was the a very kind and helpful man.  He would offer advice, usually only when asked, about things like the Turkish healthcare system, tips on travel, and restaurants.  He was willing to share with anyone who asked.

Kurt and I had things in common.  We were both raised in the Northeast.  We both had family ties to North Carolina and to Germany.  We both married Turks.  We both spoke German.  But most importantly, we shared a love of fine food.

I doubt Kurt ever read this blog regularly.  But he always emailed me after a restaurant review.  He had great tips of where to eat and which places to avoid like the plague.  Our relationship grew to a point where he would randomly email me when he found a good deal on a great restaurant.  I really grew fond of him and looked forward to his messages.

Last month, Kurt revealed that he would be heading to the States this summer and wanted to visit one of his former stomping grounds, Philadelphia.  I was so excited that I could finally return his kindnesses!  I replied with a lengthy list of my favorite restaurants along with links to online restaurant reviews.  I even offered to meet him and his wife for dinner.

Yesterday morning, I realized I had not heard from Kurt since that exchange and thought I should email him.  Just moments later, I received an email from a mutual friend of his passing.  I feel as if I had lost a dear friend, albeit a pen pal.

Kurt was a fine man and will surely be missed by many on both sides of the pond.  I will always remember him for his vivacity, goodness, and passion for fine dining.  And I will definitely follow his last words of advice to me, “Keep up your writings.”

Yesterday, I met with a group of my Turkish gal pals for lunch.  It was a lovely setting on Mogan Lake.  Once lunch was served, I shared my story of Kurt with my friends.  We then raised our glasses and toasted Kurt.

To Kurt and to Friends!

Terry & Baris’ Big Weekend Adventure – Day 1 – Touring Kaş

This post is the first in a series about our weekend adventure in Kaş.  The series will include this post on the town of Kaşthree posts on sea kayaking, paragliding, and hiking along the Lycian Way.  It will end with a post on how to get to Kaş, and information about the company that hosted our weekend, Bougainville Travel, who provides these adventures and others such as sea diving, snorkeling, mountain biking, canyoning, boat tours and more.  BT also owns and operates two hotels in Kaş, the Oreo Hotel and the Arpia Hotel, which will make your visit even more convenient!

Kaş is a small coastal town west of Antalya on the Mediterranean Sea.  With a population of about 7,000, surrounded by water and snow-covered mountains, Kaş is truly a hidden gem.  It is a tourist town where the visitors are warmly greeted by the locals – a mix of both Turks and foreigners who have made Kaş their home.

After a long bus ride from Ankara (more on that later), we arrived in Kaş around noon on Saturday.  A very short walking distance from the otogar (bus stop) sat the Oreo Hotel up on the hilltop.  (Note, the folks at the hotel are happy to pick you up and deliver you to the hotel).

The Oreo Hotel

My first impressions were of pure amazement.  The hotel was whitewashed and draped with a deep pink flowers – the only building in Kaş, to be covered so.  We were warmly greeted by the hotel manager, Ayten.  Ayten holds a degree in hotel management and has managed the Oreo Hotel since 2008.  She speaks English as well as Turkish, which made it easy for us to communicate as she strove to meet our every need.

Deep Pink Bougainvillea

The rooms of the Oreo Hotel are plain, clean, and simple.  If you are looking for luxury, this is not the place for you.  The Oreo was perfect for us however!  Our room overlooked the property which included a large swimming pool.

Oreo’s Swimming Pool

The pool, however, was not the most dramatic feature.  The view from our balcony was simply awe-inspiring!  As we gazed out, our mouths gaping, there she was!  Akdeniz.  The Mediterranean Sea, just meters away!

The View from Our Balcony

With a view like this, who would need a television in the room?  No phone, no fridge, no telephone.  None of these were missed.

Reservations at the Oreo include a simple and traditional Turkish breakfast.  The Oreo  provides a spacious indoor dining area.

Traditional Turkish Breakfast Buffet

Oreo’s Indoor Dining Area

However, we preferred the outdoor tables, nestled under lemon trees and Yeni Dünya trees – a small yellow Turkish fruit.  I don’t know if there is an English word for it, but Yeni Dünya translates to “New World.”  I like that.

Oreo’s Outdoor Dining Area

The Lemon Trees!

After a short nap, we explored the town.  Unless you are staying on the peninsula, everything in the main part of town is walking distance.  Of course, we didn’t ask for directions and walked the less “touristy” route at first.  This turned out to be quite lucky as we stumbled upon a pide restaurant along Atatürk Blvd.  I have eaten in many pide places over the years, and this was simply the best I ever had!

A newer non-touristy street

An Older Kas Home

Next, we found our way down to the harbour and back-tracked towards the cobble-stoned streets.  There we found a host of traditional Turkish shops, boutiques restaurants, colorful store fronts, archaeological finds and so much more!

The Mosque

Lycian Sarcophagus

Another Sarcophagus

Whether shopping for trinkets or fine jewelry, a little souvenir to remember or a hand-woven rug, Kaş has it all!

Echo Bar Jazz Club – boasts a 3rd-century-BC basement cistern

A Carpet Shop

We selected a fish restaurant for a late afternoon tea and sweets.  The restaurant sat high on a hill overlooking the harbour.  The view was tremendous!

Seaside Restaurant

The Harbour View

I am told that the Oreo Hotel also serves a memorable dinner during the high season.  We were a little too early for that.  But we didn’t miss it.

On our first evening, we were treated to dinner by one of the owners of Bougainville Travel, Phil Buckley, at the Sultan Garden Restaurant with another gorgeous view of the harbour.  We were joined by his wife, Alison, and two of their friends, Caroline and Gerry, who were also visiting.  It was an incredible night – Brits, a Scot, an American and a Turk, enjoying a delicious meal, joking as if we were all old friends, and sharing stories of Adventures!  Both Alison and Caroline were experienced adventure guides – so there were plenty of stories to tell!  But we had to call it a night early – as we were all scheduled for a sea kayaking adventure  the next morning.  Check back soon for Day 2 of our adventure – kayaking!

Another Harbour View

For more information about Kaş, the hotels mentioned, and the seaside adventures, please visit Bouganville Travel’s website by clicking here.

Spice Curry House Restaurant Review

I heard about Spice Curry House in G.O.P. after writing a restaurant review on Masala Cafe, a Pakistani restaurant.  Over the past two years, I had it on my “to do” list.  I had heard mixed reviews of the restaurant.  Last night I experienced it for myself.

I was disappointed.

First, let me say that all of my disappointment may not be the fault of Spice Curry House.  We had purchased a coupon online from one of the big discount deal websites here in Turkey.  Allegedly, we would get a 98tl meal for only 49tl.  Dinner for two would include a choice of 2 entrees, two rices, two appetizers, and two desserts.  Upon review of the website, there was no way that could add up to 98tl.  At most, it’s value would be 84tl.  But perhaps they would include water or tea.

I have no confirmation of whether it was SCH or Grupfoni that falsely advertised the value of the meal.  However, the taste of the meal and the size of the portions clearly are determined by the restaurant itself.

We quickly learned that nothing else was included.  Our choice of entrees were limited to 4, and we would be served the combination appetizer – 6 pieces of vegetarian selections plus one additional piece of lamb samosa.  An extra piece of appetizer.  All right!  Or so I thought. (Priced at 9tl each without the lamb samosa).

Our appetizers came.  4 pieces each.  This signaled to me that we were going to be lucky to get a 49tl meal.  We proceeded to order the Lamb Rogan Josh (22TL) and Butter Chicken (18TL), both with Saffron rice (3tl each).

Two sad plates arrived at our table.  A small portion of rice and a teeny weeny salad on each – no dressing or slice of lemon.  One very small piece of chicken breast and a small helping of the lamb – there couldn’t have been more than 6 tiny chunks of meat.

Inhale.  Exhale.  Taste it all.  Hopefully that would change my mind. Boring.  Perhaps my idea of Indian food – which is Americanized – is much different than the Australian or British idea. (I was told the owner is Australian, but the menu screams British.)  The butter chicken had a lovely color but absolutely no flavor.  The sauce was not creamy.  In fact, it had separated on my place with puddles of grease.  The small piece of chicken breast was overcooked and very dry.  Their claim of being “a real crowd pleaser” just didn’t ring true last night.

The Rogan Josh was also very bland. I could barely make out the curry flavor.  It also was not creamy, but filled with little chunks of ingredients.  The “medium-hot” temperature was lost on me.  There was nothing spicy about it.

A small piece of naan was served with each meal.  It wasn’t the best I have ever had.  It was certainly the smallest, and it wasn’t exactly naan in the way I know it, but I give them a plus for trying.  It’s the first time I have seen it served in Turkey.

At last, the dessert.  We were limited to two choices, a “Sticky Toffee Pudding” which oddly enough, was described in Turkish as a date pudding, or a traditional Indian cake known as Carrot Halva. (8tl each) My husband went for the pudding.

Perhaps pudding means different things in different countries. It was nothing like I would describe as pudding.  A tiny little piece of dark brown cake with a dark brown icing was served with toffee lightly drizzled on the plate.  There was the tiniest little scoop of ice cream served with it.  I tasted it. It was so dry that I couldn’t make out the flavor (and I didn’t want to devour my husband’s dessert by eating more).  But it seemed like chocolate with toffee to me, no sign of dates.

Since I was still very hungry and not the biggest fan of dessert, I decided to test SCH.  I asked if I could have an order of Onion Bhaji instead of dessert, after all, it was the same price. (8tl). Our waiter, who was very nice and spoke English well, but who was also very inattentive, even though there was no one there when we came and only one other couple throughout our meal, looked shocked.

His response, with a mouth gaping open, was to point to the menu and say, “No.  The whole point of it is to (silence).  I will ask.”  I smiled and thanked him and chose the Carrot Cake as an alternative should the chef refuse my simple request.

Within a few minutes, I was served HALF an order of Onion Bhaji.  The only thing good about it was that it was piping hot, much hotter than the first round of  fried appetizers.  Actually there was a second good thing, I loved the chutney.  I could do without the yogurt though.  A traditional mint chutney would have been welcomed as a second dip.

My after-tizer was actually served before my husband was served his cake.  This caused me to wonder about the Chef’s sense of timing.  How could it possibly be faster to fry my bhaji before slicing a piece of cake?

And half an order.  Seriously?  I also started to wonder if we were even getting 49TL worth of food?  All of the appetizers were clearly cut back, and I feel confident that our meals and my husband’s dessert were also smaller.

I waited with baited breath to see whether we would be offered a complimentary glass of tea.  It was never even suggested that we buy a tea or cup of coffee.

We ordered one glass of wine (8tl) and a soda at the beginning of our meal.  I specifically asked for a heavy dry white wine.  I was served a freezing cold glass of barely dry, light and fruity wine.  And I have this thing about drinking wine from a bottle that wasn’t opened the same day.  This clearly wasn’t.

At some point we did get his attention and ordered water, since we had nothing left to drink by the time we received our meals.

Usually, when I review a restaurant, I like to take photos.  I opted not to since I didn’t like what I was seeing and I didn’t want to tip them off.

Finally, I was also disappointed that our meals were served on a plate, without the beauty of small Indian crocks that usually hold the meals.  The restaurant is clean, but there is nothing fancy about it with it’s picnic-style chairs and tables.  There was no care to ensure that everything we needed was on the table.  So I sent my husband to the neighboring table for a napkin.  As is the case with most restaurants I have been to in Turkey, the waiter never returned to the table to see if we needed anything or how we were enjoying our meals.

For those of you who are thinking that this may just have been an off night for SCH, here is something to consider.  A couple of months ago we tried to make a reservation.  We were told that we were welcome to come, but that there would only be one cook in the restaurant as they were catering a party at an Embassy.  So we didn’t go.  Last night, there was a full staff, the owner included.

I am interested in your comments.  Have you had a different experience at SCH?  I won’t be returning as I left the Indian restaurant hungry – a first for me.  Sadly, with the new management of Masala Cafe, I’m not a fan of it anymore either.  Are there any other alternatives?

Spice Curry House
Cayhane Sokak 30/A
Gazi Osman Pasa, Ankara 06700
ph: 0312 4466885
fax: 0312 4466885
alt: 0537 4187918
info@spicecurry.net
http://www.spicecurry.net

Note – the prices contained in this post are the actual prices on the menu at the time of this writing, some of which are higher than listed on SCH’s website.  My suspicions about the size of the portions served are confirmed by the photos of full-sized meals on this 2009 blog post:  http://eatingankara.wordpress.com/2009/12/03/spice-curry-house/.  A coupon should not mean a smaller portion.  The idea of the coupon is to get people in, and the restaurant has the benefit of being paid in advance.  The restaurant also holds the cards in the risk – that one may not use the coupon in a timely fashion (usually within 3 months of purchasing it), thereby benefiting by being paid for nothing.

Burger King – Crushing the Environment

You may remember a post I wrote a while back about McDonalds.  I was flabbergasted by their use of the #7 styrofoam container here in Turkey.  Well, it seems Burger King is no better.

Today I was in one of those moods again.  Trying to get some house work done.  I still hadn’t gone to the market for groceries since our trip.  And I was feeling the urge for American junk food.  So I ordered the Whopper meal.

You know I love ordering things online.  There’s nothing like something being delivered to your door!  I love those packages arriving with electronics, clothes, sporting goods, and more.  Here in Turkey, it’s food.  They deliver whatever you want on a moped at no extra charge.  But I am seriously going to have to reconsider this habit of mine.  Besides the obvious, the weight on my belly and the lightness of my wallet, I guess I am also contributing to the killing of trees and other bad-for-the-environment procedures simply by ordering.

Take my Whopper meal for instance.  The whopper came wrapped in paper, just like in the U.S.  But then they put it inside of a styrofoam container.  (Yep, number 7).  It was then sealed with a big round sticker.

The fries were in their usual cardboard container.  Then stuck inside of a brown paper bag.

Sodas are delivered in a can.

I asked them not to send accompaniments, so of course they sent ketchup and mustard – which come in non-recyclable plastic containers, 3 packs of salt, and the usual straw and napkins (more napkins than they would give you if you ate at the restaurant – which is only one.)

All of these things were neatly wrapped up inside another large paper bag, sealed with another sticker.

Wrapping from a BK Whopper Meal

That’s a lot of paper and plastic for 3 food items, don’t you think?  Bad, BK, bad, bad!

Birchrunville Store Cafe – a lesson for all Chefs!

Nestled between the rolling hills and green pastures of Chester County is one of the most fabulous restaurants in the Philadelphia area.

The Birchrunville Store Café serves upscale contemporary French-Italian cuisine in a down-to-earth country setting.  My sister-in-law had wanted to try the place for years.  So when I came home for a visit that was the only definite plan I had.  The two of us set out on a Thursday evening.

If you see the antique gas tank, you are at the right place!

We considered whether or not we needed to dress up.  But it had snowed that morning and was still nippy.  So we decided to dress up our jeans.  Apparently, we were dressed appropriately.  The restaurant is in fact a “country store” motif, connected to the post office.  Since it is a BYOB, the large store front windows were partially filled with wine corks, as were baskets around the room.  The décor of the small dining room was country, cozy, welcoming and warm.

Country Rooster

We were literally “wowed” by the menu.  The menu changes daily.  In addition to the delicacies listed, there were at least 9 different specials.  I had just never heard of a restaurant that had both a daily menu and special offerings!  With one look at the menu, I decided I was in heaven.  A sample of the menu can be viewed here.

S-I-L and I could not decide.  Before coming, I had my heart set on duck and scallops.  Duck was not offered that night, but scallops were!  After a lengthy discussion (and having already started on the wine), we decided that we should share several appetizers, dinners, and dessert.  My thought was that we could bring leftovers home for my brother.  Yes, we left him behind.  Sad, I know.  But it was girls’ night!

From the many offerings we ordered the following.  We shared not one, not two, not even three, but four appetizers!  We had the best lobster bisque I have ever tasted, made with port wine and saffron.

Lobster Bisque

I enjoyed a few Kumamoto oysters, which are a Japanese variety, but raised in the States.  The oysters were topped with caviar, the reddish type used on sushi.  The only issue I had with the food the entire evening was that the oysters were not shucked properly.  The oyster was still connected to the shell by the knob on its underside.  So when I drowned my oysters with minion sauce, slurping them down was impossible!  I lost the sauce and the caviar in an attempt to free the oysters.

Kumamoto Oysters

The oysters and bisque were followed by a Tuna Tartare – again, the best I ever had.  White tuna, topped with Ahi Tuna, topped with Smoked Calamari Salad, drizzled with the perfect amount of sesame oil and fresh basil.

Tuna Tartare

The final appetizer was a homemade gnocchi served with roasted vegetables – parsnips, baby spinach, tomatoes, onion – with pecorino and pancetta.  Mmmmmm.

Gnocchi with Roasted Vegetables

One would think we may have been full at this point, but no.  S-I-L and I are troopers when it comes to fine dining.  The entrees arrived . . .

Herb-encrusted roasted rack of lamb, served on a bed of polenta with a tomato thyme reduction, broccoli rabe, a dollop of mashed potatoes and yam puree, and decorated with a potato crisp embedded with parsley and sea salt.

Herb Encrusted Rack of Lamb

Our second entrée was a pan-fried sea bass, wrapped in thin slices of potato and stuffed with diver sea scallops and basil served atop tomato consommé.  Moist, flavorful and delicious!

Scallop-Stuffed Sea Bass

Having finished most of our meal, we opted for dessert.  While I like sweets, I don’t have a sweet-tooth and rarely order dessert.  But this seemed more and more like a special occasion.  So we shared a trio of Crème Brulée – vanilla, pistachio and a type of coffee (I apologize but my memory escapes me.)

The servers skillfully catered to our needs throughout the evening. They were pleasant and knowledgeable, having thoroughly memorized all of the specials.  Refreshingly, they were not the “Le Bec Fin” stuffy type of servers.

Unfortunately for my brother, there were no leftovers.  I imagine you will also clear your plates!  If you are in the Philadelphia area, this dinner is well worth the trip!  It was the best meal I had in a long time.  And on top of that, dinner cost us $110.  That’s right, only $110 for the tastiest 4 appetizers, 2 entrees, dessert, coffee and soda!

My only other negative comment (besides the oysters) is that the menu boasted “free range” meats.  I am told that it has at times also claimed organic vegetables.  But the restaurant is not necessarily “green.”  A changing menu means wasted paper on a daily basis.  And an insider tells me that the chef can be very demanding with his suppliers – often ordering small quantities in limited time, which means a lot of gasoline can be wasted.

Other than that, I say Bravo! to Chef Francis Trzeciak!  Well done!  If you are ever in Ankara, please stop by!  I would love for you to show me a thing or two!

Many thanks to my sister-in-law for a wonderful evening!  Brilliant dinner suggestion, simply brilliant!

Brilliant All the Way Around!

If you are planning to go, make your reservations early and call for directions or use Google Maps.  Do NOT trust your GPS on this one!

Birchrunville Store Café
1403 Hollow Road
Birchrunville, PA
610.827.9002

http://www.birchrunvillestorecafe.com/index.php

Reservations are highly recommended!
Private Tastings and Private Parties are also offered.
BYOB

It’s located off of Rt. 401, just above Rt. 113.  There are a few short turns from there.

My apologies that the photos aren’t better.  I hadn’t planned on the review and therefore didn’t bring my camera.  I made due with my cell phone.